As I hoped, writing about my misery was helpful. The fever’s gone and my head feels brighter again. Thursday and Friday I worked normally again. And the past three days I’ve been surfing too. Back to full strength, physically and mentally I’m feeling back to normal again. I don’t know for sure what that was […]
Category: Surfing related
Vacation’s Over – Starting a “New Normalcy”
How’s my antsiness doing? For starters a brief follow-up to the main theme of my last post. I’ve talked to a couple of people here about my feeling of urgency and antsiness. A neighbor I played backgammon with a couple of times told me that he’s seen a lot of the same with people who […]
Fighting the Antsiness and Becoming a Surfer
A question to myself: Why am I always in a hurry to move on? On the weekend I was planning to leave the by Tuesday. Just yesterday I still wrote that I would be going to Spain today. But here I am in Baleal still. Now I’m trying really hard not to run off from […]
Still in Baleal – Looking for Surf Gear
I’m still in Baleal because this place feels so nice. I decided I’d give it a few more days at least since I’m not really in a hurry. The waves right now are bad everywhere including Spain so there’s not much point hurrying elsewhere because of surfing either. A new home I moved from the […]
An Intensive Week of Surf Coming to an End
This place is as amazing as I remembered. The conditions could have been better, but I’m not complaining. I also remembered again how painful it is to surf for four hours every day for five consecutive days. Especially if you are not as fit as you used to be. Rough conditions – whitewater training On […]
Baleal Surf Camp – Another Home Away from Home
The plan was to visit Porto and I did that too, but without getting out of Naranja. I did find a pretty place to spend the night though and went to Nazaré to see the spot that’s famous for the biggest waves in the world. And now finally I’m in a very familiar place in […]